How to make a hunting knife
That's how I make my knives. Yes, this lesson is no different from the rest. Am I experiencing this? No. And it looks like you, too. In the end, you read it.
I posted just a few posts, but that does not mean I did not do many things.
As the name implies, this is a hunting knife. I could come up with a design myself, but decided to print a template from the Internet.
Transferring shapes to steel
This stage comes after you got the right material. I used 85 grade carbon steel. It has excellent qualities and is easy to heat treat.
Outline the contour of the knife with a permanent marker. It can make you sweat, but you can do it. After all, you were taught this in the kindergarten.
Cutting the workpiece
It's time to make a piece of metal look like a knife, but not yet a hunting one. For this job I use an angle grinder with a cutting wheel. So far, perfect accuracy is not important, it is always easier to achieve with a grinding machine. Therefore, leave difficult places for him.
Work on the grinding machine and grinding the contour of the blade
Now the blank can be given the shape of a real knife. Make everything perfect. Let the knife look better than you ever imagined.
Or not. I am not very worried about this.
Closer to the point: let his form repeat the line that you brought out with a marker.
Then you need to align the edges. I made a blade like Scandinavian. I didn’t take pictures, but for this procedure you just need to hold the blade at the right angle and grind it.
Drill holes for rivets
This is my least favorite part of the knife making process. For some reason, drilling holes in metal scares me. Perhaps because everything ends with broken drills.
And yet, drill a few holes in the shank, choose the location at its discretion. I also made a strap hole, but you can stick to your chosen design.
For the hilt, I used 5 mm rivets of an alloy of silver and nickel. You can also use bronze rods, which are sold in large hardware stores.
Heat treatment is my favorite part.What it is? I will tell. The piece of steel you are working on is very soft. So its easier to cut, grind and give it the desired shape. The reverse side of this - the metal is too soft to be a knife. Therefore, it must be made more solid. The best way is to heat the metal to red in the hearth, and then dip it in the oil. The oil cools it very quickly. The only drawback - the metal becomes very fragile, like glass, and can break, for example, if you drop it. Therefore, it must be kept in the oven for several hours at 200 ° C. A moderately heated metal is made slightly softer until it becomes ideal for a knife blade.
So I did. I warmed it to 800 ° C and then dipped it in vegetable oil (the process caused spectacular burning), and then put the knife in the oven.
When in doubt, there is an easy way to make sure that the knife warms up to the required temperature.
If you doubt the temperature, you can easily check it with a magnet. If the metal has ceased to magnet, then the blade is heated to 750 ° C. Hold it in the furnace for a few more seconds and then cool it.
First you need to find a suitable tree. I used black walnut because it looks good and I had it at hand. But you can use any kind of hardwood, as long as it is well dried. Why dry? Because wet over time will be deformed and dry out, and completely ruin your knife.
So, cut the lining size a little larger than the shank of the knife.
We drill holes in the lining
I have not yet found a way to do this normally, because it is difficult to secure the lining reliably to the shank. Every time I have something wrong. In general, try and make mistakes.
Somehow make holes in them so that they coincide with the holes of the shank.
This is one of the stages that causes me irritation. I do not know why.
You will need a two-component epoxy resin (adhesive), preferably with a long drying time. It's hard for me to work with a resin that freezes in five minutes, it adds stress. I used JB Weld, but any two-component glue should work. Sorry that there are no more photos with the process of gluing, but I was in a hurry and completely forgot about it. It's pretty simple.Mix the ingredients together on something, such as a piece of cardboard. Then, using a stick of ice cream or something similar, apply glue on the lining, shank, rivets. Next, clamp the handles with a clamp, make sure that the glue does not get on the blade and wait for the time specified in the instructions. In my case, this is 24 hours.
Shaping the handle
Now our pads and rivets are securely glued. The time has come to give shape to the handle. I started with an angle grinder with a radial blade. He removes the material quite quickly, so you need to be more careful, but at this stage the circle copes perfectly. Basically, you need to work on the overlays until glue is visible on the handle.
Giving roundness of the handle and fine grinding
I was not fond of photographing this process, but with it everything is pretty clear. Using an angle grinder with a flap wheel, carefully shape the rounded plates. Then go to the belt grinder for finer work. If the shape suits you, then you can grind manually using sandpaper with fine grains, do it until you get bored.
Polishing the handle
It is a pity that there are no photos of this stage, but there is nothing special to show here.
Apply a product for finishing polishing of wood of your choice. I used beeswax with melted linseed oil.
Here is the knife!
Congratulations, you just made a knife. Now some cool pictures and you can use.
This knife is cool, stays sharp for a long time and is easy to sharpen. By its functionality, it is no different from the purchase.
As you can see in the last photo, I made a scabbard for him from kaydeksa.
Just in case, sorry for the quality of the pictures, the lighting in my workshop is not very good.